If you have tight, red, stinging, itchy, reactive, flushing, blushing or
hot skin, you may describe your skin as ‘sensitive’. So do around 50% of women
around the globe, and many could be wrong.
Sensitive skin is inherited. Sensitised skin is acquired. The behaviours
of the two conditions are often similar, and treatments may be similar as well.
But here’s the crucial difference: if you have truly genetically-inherited
sensitive skin, then it cannot be fully erased but it can be treated. It’s in
your DNA!
Sensitisation is a response to an external or introduced factor (or a
combination) and is not driven by genetics. Generally, it is triggered by
lifestyle choices (stress being a major factor) or exposure to environmental
chemicals. So it is possible that sensitisation may be arrested, moderated and
fully reversed with changes in environment, habits, etc.
What does sensitisation look and feel like?
The primary signs of sensitisation indicate that the barrier protecting
the skin has been damaged.
Examine your skin through sight and touch for:
· Thinned texture,
translucent appearance
· Dehydration on the
cheek and forehead area
· Excessive dryness,
uneven texture and rough patches
· Tightness after
washing, and stinging on product application – or even simply when
rinsing
with water
· Broken capillaries
across cheeks and nose
· Redness on cheeks,
décolleté and neck, or all over
· Hot spots’,
especially on the décolleté, neck and cheeks
· Blushing and
itching, burning sensations
· Small, rash-like
bumps or breakouts
People tend to view their skin concerns as ‘aesthetic’, but skin is a
living shield which protects our tissues and organs from infection. A damaged
lipid barrier can no longer offer this level of needed protection which means
that sensitised skin should be treated, rather than being put up with.
What causes sensitisation?
Now for the science bit…there are two primary processes that contribute
to sensitive skin. While visibly red, irritated skin may be the end result of
two different types of inflammation, immunogenic (caused by a substance) and
neurogenic (caused by the body), you can also have these types of inflammation
without visible signs associated with it. The inflammatory process is still
occurring but it is invisible to the eye and may only result in stinging,
burning or itching. In this case the skin is sensitive and if not controlled it
may lead to visible inflammation associated with redness and the typical
symptoms.
• IMMUNOGENIC INFLAMMATION is defined as the body, in this case, the
skin, responding to an introduced irritant (pollen, bacteria and artificial
fragrances are common triggers) with an immune-system response. In other words,
the skin attacks the intruding force, much the way your body would fight off a
virus, although in the case of sensitisation, pain, redness and swelling are common
responses.
• NEUROGENIC INFLAMMATION originates in the nerves, and nervous system.
Chemicals and pollutants in the environment stimulate receptors in the skin to
trigger inflammation resulting in the release of substances called
neuropeptides that trigger the inflammatory response. Under normal conditions,
these substances play a highly useful role in tissue repair, but neuropeptides
also are active in triggering and aggravating sensitisation as well as a
variety of painful inflammatory conditions such as itching, psoriasis,
dermatitis and rosacea.
Combine either or both of these factors with a compromised barrier lipid
layer and you have the perfect conditions to have inflamed, overly reactive
skin that triggers either or both of these two complex processes. There may be
a number of triggers but the simplest answer is ‘stress’—defined any number of
ways:
• Mental/emotional ‘life’ stress
• Sheer physical stress including fatigue, dehydration or malnutrition,
or overexertion from extended travel, rigorous activity or athletic training,
or recovery from illness.
• Stress of an environmental variety, such as the immune system being
challenged by toxins in the air, water, or other physical conditions.
These environmental and lifestyle factors contribute greatly to
sensitisation, so it’s vital to think about:
• Extremes of climate, both interior and exterior, natural/manmade
• Smoking, which dehydrates the skin by depleting barrier lipids and
affects collagen synthesis and cell metabolism
• Exposure to pollution – not just smog, but think in terms of ‘sick
building syndrome’, chemicals encountered in the workplace, etc. Even the fumes
from a new carpet, new furniture (which often is stabilised with formaldehyde)
may trigger sensitisation.
• Excessive exfoliation leading to over-processed skin, especially
combinations of common procedures and products such as microdermabrasion,
glycolic peels, retinoids, etc
• Laser resurfacing or other trauma to the skin
• Excessive washing, especially with alkaline products like conventional
bar-soap, and especially showering/bathing in too-hot water.
• Topical products and make-up containing artificial fragrances,
colourants and alcohol
• Alcohol and caffeine consumption can dehydrate the tissues and dilate
capillaries, resulting in flushing and redness
• Inadequate UV protection; often chemical sunscreens (non-titanium
dioxide or zinc oxide sunscreens) can trigger sensitisation
• Nutritional choices: low-fat diets which may deplete lipid strength
and eating spicy foods has been linked to increased skin sensitivity, possibly
due to nerve activity in the skin
• Stress and sleep-deprivation
So, how to treat?
The first step in breaking the cycle of sensitisation is removing as
many triggers from the contact-sphere as possible. Lifestyle choices which are
under your control are an obvious place to start, such as smoking, alcohol and
caffeine consumption. Likewise, stress may be managed to some degree through
other lifestyle choices, such as the decision to exercise, pursue meditation,
receive alternative therapies and massages, etc.
• Cleansing the skin properly is the first step in strategic care. As
mentioned, alkaline soaps and hot water set sensitisation into motion so you
need to use an extremely gentle, sulphate-free, non-stripping gel or cream
cleanser which will fortify the protective barrier function without leaving a
residue. If your skin is sensitive to water, the product may also be removed
with damp cotton or a soft cloth. Ingredients to look for in this type of
cleanser, which also is appropriate for newly resurfaced skin, include
Raspberry, soothing Cucumber and Panthenol (provitamin B5) that helps to
regenerate tissues.
• A spritz of calming spray is a recommended next step. Look for a
soothing, hydrating mist to immediately relieve irritation.
• Masques are especially helpful to sensitive skin, since the prolonged
contact of a calming relief masque delivers lasting effects.
• Serum concentrates speed the healing process at times of severe
inflammation and ease the discomfort of long-term sensitisation.
• Appropriate moisturiser and UV protection are also essential to
managing sensitisation, since dehydration, excess heat and free radical damage
often are syndrome triggers. If you like exfoliating then make sure you use an
ultra-gentle exfoliant, only on the condition that the lipid barrier is not
damaged. In this case, use an ultrafine product which delicately polishes
fragile skin with microparticles of rice bran and rice enzymes. Also note that
even conventional washcloths and towels can irritate sensitive skin; use a high-tech
microfibre sponge cloth for cleanser and masque removal instead.
• In terms of moisturisers, often a rich, medium-to-heavyweight product
works best, to form a substantial layer of lipid barrier protections and
humectant hydration around tenderised areas such as cheeks, nostrils, cuticles,
or any other hot spots. UV daylight defence products should be a physical block
rather than a chemical sunscreen. Monitor this usage carefully, as
sun-protection often is a trigger for inflammation on sensitive skin.
Two of the best ranges I’ve found to really help with sensitive skin
are:
Dermalogica’s UltraCalming range. I’d say the hero products here are the
UltraCalming Mist to provide immediate relief (I even use this after waxing and
it calms it down immediately) and the UltraCalming Serum Concentrate feels so
lovely on the skin. Although I don’t suffer from sensitive skin all the time, I
use facial hair removal cream on my face which seems to make it flare up and go
bright red, so once I use these products on it, the redness disappears almost
instantly! The Concentrate is so calming to apply as well and I use it as a
moisturiser the day after hair removal.
